Peavey Black Widow Driver For Mac
Today I picked up a Peavey Mark VI XP head and a 115BXBW cabinet. I got them for what I thought was a bargain price (£150) for both, but I seem to have forgotten that things are cheap for a reason. The head has one or two problems too, but it's nothing a trip to a service centre won't solve.
Anyway, the 115BWBX sounds pretty good, but playing a low E fingerstyle at volume produces a rather undesirable farty noise. With a sad heart, I got the screwdriver out and took the cabinet to bits. I originally wondered if the speaker was blown, but the 'pushing the cone' test doesn't produce anything untoward.
The noise sounds a bit like a torn cone, but I checked it carefully and it's all still in one piece. I have a feeling that the noise is coming from the rubber surround, but again all looks fine, so I'm a bit confused. I should point out that I've cleaned out the box, and all the testing was done with the front grille off so it's not that rattling.
Peavey Black Widow 1208
Anyway, I think a new speaker is in order. Now I've got a problem. I haven't been in touch with Peavey yet, but according to their US site, a new 1502-4 BW is not cheap, even in Dollars. They're a few Eminence cones on eBay (new) for reasonable prices, namely Kappa Pros. I was wondering if anyone's had any experience with these in this box. I know a new 115BVX (or whatever the new one is) isn't that much money, but I can't really bring myself to throw away a perfectly servicable box, and I'd like to keep it at 4 ohms. Hopefully that makes sense.
Thanks in advance EDIT: I should add that I don't mind losing a little high end response from the 115, as I will be paring this cab with a 4x10. You may be able to get just the basket for the speaker if it has fatuge at cone edge about 75.00$ us. Have found poor sound from bw beacose the filter foam has came apart and gotten between coil and magnent ya will not see a bad ohms reading but the coil will bind with the foam and sound verry bad as if blown.unbolt the basket from magnet and look for black goo on coil easy fix if bad bolt on new new basket.Make shure all your solder joints for spkr jack are good a bad solder joint will often show it head only under load or vibration, ck cab for broken joint or supports. I suspect you just have a cone that needs to be replced.IMOM could not ask for a better brand of gear to repair I have had verry good support from pv God Bless Gig On!!!!! Click to expand.
I think this needs repeating. When you take the magnet off the back, look for crumbled black foam. When new, it is installed in the center of the magnet under the silver screening (see pics above). I had a BW that sounded all distorted, and when I took the speaker aprt, the foam was all disintegrated and was all over the voice coil and in the magnet gap. If so, clean it off the coil, and do as stated above with the tape.
Make sure you run a couple of pieces though the coil gap on the magnet to get it all out. When I did this, the speaker sounded as new. As HRGiger said, run the tape around the inside of the groove to get the crumbled foam out. I just did this to two 1502-8s, and on one of them, I could see the foam had melted onto the side of the groove (voice coil shot on that one - new one was US$82 + shipping), so I took a stiff strip of thin cardboard, sipped it in rubbing alcohol, and cleaned the black stuff off - it took about six pieces to get it all off.
With the new basket, it plays like a dream. Note: the new baskets do not have the cast aluminum spokes; they are stamped steel, but are the same otherwise. Click to expand.Kappalites.
The neos perform better, aren't much more expensive, and are waaay lighter. In regards to 'crapshoot' - hardly. Unless the tuning freq is WAY above 50hz and the cabinet volume is way under 2.6cf or way over 5cf, either kappalite driver would outperform the BW.
I am not even sure there is a tuning freq at which a 1502-4 would outperform either Kappalite in the low end. Which kappalite depends on how much volume you've got. Under 3.5cf, 3015, over 3.5cf, 3015LF - roughly. The tuning is the kicker, in that you'd want to measure that. Just stick w/ the BW because the box was designed specifically for that exact speaker, which is what makes it sound good. As someone said you may possibly be able to get away with trying to 'adjust' the magnet a little. Some have had success with this, some have not but it sure can't hurt to try.
For instance the basket in my picture above with the burned voice coil was a BW I purchased that was supposedly great, but when I installed it and tested it, it worked and sounded pretty good, but would fart sometimes at low freqs. As you described. I removed it and saw the burned areas. Then I did attempt to re-align it several times and had no luck. Got ahold of a new basket, slapped it on, and it was 'rock and roll all nite!' Looking forward to hearing what yours looks like (a pic would be great) when you find out. With WinISD Pro or other box sim if you model the Em 3015 and the Peavey 1502 or 1505DT (not KADT which is way short in the xmax department for bass guitar!) in various enclosure sizes/tunings you'll see what's what.
The 3015 works decently in those box sizes at the same tunings if I recall, though not with so much midbass hump - but also doesn't run out of xmax so early and thus is able to handle more low EQ and wattage. The upper response is a little different but not earth-shatteringly so.
PauliePower, looks like the Peavey has been stored in a sauna!;.
Use Razer BlackWidow (PC Edition) on a Mac This is probably useful only to a few people – but if you are one of the mac users who bought a Razer BlackWidow keyboard (PC), this should be helpful. “BlackWidow” is a mechanical keyboard for a reasonable price, better than the default apple keyboard. It’s called a “gaming keyboard”, so after unpacking you’re official member of the “Cult of Razer”. Mac edition confusion The BlackWidow keyboard has a PC layout (which I’ll call “PC edition”).
There is also a “Mac edition” – but it wasn’t available in Germany and costs about 50€ more than the standard edition, just for having USB ports and illuminated keys. That’s where things get confusing aka annoying:. There are OS X drivers from Razer, but only for the “Mac edition”. According to the FAQ they absolutely don’t work with the “PC edition”. But: The OS X drivers work flawlessly with the “PC edition”. The firmware updater is only available as Windows software Layout This is a standard PC keyboard layout, so. Instead of option (alt) keys a “windows key” on the left and the “application key” on the right.
I’m sure by this point that you’ve gotten an answer by some other means, just commenting in the event someone has a similar question. It should work with at the bare minimum of having every function you’d expect from a standard keyboard.
I am not typically an OSx user, but I’ve been having to learn. My fiance’s MacPro desktop was most recently running El Capitan.
Peavey Black Widow Driver For Mac Pro
The AEFI (apple’s proprietary version of the new UEFI which has been adopted by PC manufacturers to be an update to the BIOS. Apple exclusively handles updates to the AEFI through exclusively through their own software. He now runs CentOS which is a version of Linux not known to be the most up to date and compatible with systems such as Mac and bleeding edge flagship devices, but I was able to use the keyboard in a plug and play manner (linux does not automatically install drivers for newly discovered devices). Im unsure the stability of this, but there is a github repo which includes OSx and Linux drivers from the community which are supposed to add in the functionality of even being able to modify the color scheme for the chroma’s backlight. This is not however for the inexperienced. The Razer Synapse driver is somewhat buggy and it has some issues with OSX. I’m trying to use my Blackwidow Ultimate 2014 (PC) only with OS drivers and seems to be more stable, especially when you set the swap with ALT/COMMAND keys (the confusion is: if you set with OSX control panel, you’ve to set ALSO on Synapse?).
The lack of Macro keys is not (for me) important, and thanks to the modifications described above, I was able to configure the right ALT key, the Application, PRT SCR, SCR LCK and PAUSE keys. The multimedia function keys works flawless without any third part tools. Strange but in this case it seems that the simple OS’s approach to the problem (use a PC keyboard with a Mac) is more reliable than the vendor’s one. Thanks for the great and useful article! I’m having real problems getting into Target Display Mode, connecting my MacBook to my iMac. It seems that the usual command to do this (CMD-F2) isn’t correctly sent by the Black Widow keyboard. I tried a workaround using “Keyboard Maestro” (see this blog post: ), which is far to expensive to purchase though, just to get this working.
And apart from that, it does not work reliably either:( Does anybody have another hint on how to get this working with the Black Widow (PC version)? I would really like to keep the keyboard but having to attach my Mac aluminum keyboard just to enter Target Display Mode seems stupid. I just bought razer blackwidow 2013, standart edition (for pc, without illuminating). My macro on the fly recording does not wanted to work, so I decided to install razer synapse 2.0 drivers. After it I’ve encountered problems with not properly working function keys etc. But I’ve tried to “remap” for example f9 to.
F9 in the synapse settings. After few attempts it was “remapped” and now I have: working funtction keys, installed drivers and working macros with on the fly recording. Not sure how exactly I remapped keys because on the first attempts it doesn’t worked. But you should try to “walk around” remapping and try different functions and after some attempts it should work fine. Try to remap f9 to f12 and then back to f9 etc. Hope it will help someone.
Ok, I’ve checked the private.xml and settings are as per your instructions (see below). I’ve tried rebooting with just the crtl key on the left side of this keyboard, the windows key left side of keyboard and the alt key on the left side. I’ve also tried your suggestion of holding down the alt and GR key-(I used the alt key on the right side of the keyboard this time). I’ve reset the keyboard-the blue lights now flash again (was missing that). My settings in system preferences: caps lock, control, command, option, Just so you know this is the windows keyboard for the razer blackwidow ultimate. Anything else I can try? Razer WinKey to AltR private.razer.winalt –KeyToKey– KeyCode::PCAPPLICATION, KeyCode::OPTIONR.